Vw Manual Transmission Code August
I had my TDI bubble busted by driveline noise that ended up being a bad Luk dual mass clutch. My Luk ran out so to speak. At any rate, I had the 6 speed manual bearings all replaced by the local expert. He and I both agreed that some of the bearings looked great, but 2 counter shaft bearings had a wee bit of pitting; nothing requiring an immediate rebuild but we did it never the less. When I say we, I mean his 41 years as a trans tech and my $1248 plus tax. Any recommended gear oil for the new bearings? The old fluid ran out like straight 30W when I yanked the trans drain plug.
- VW Gear Box Codes & Gear Ratio's. Discuss VW transaxles and transmissions. Beetle Gearbox Part Numbers Should start 113 For a Manual Box and 001 for an Auto Box.
- Feb 02, 2015 6 Speed Manual Transmission Swap VW MKV. Is there a resource that I can use to find the different VW trans codes so I can more efficiently sift.
Vw 020, 02a, 02j transmission codes and ratios.
The bearings that had the very slight pitting looked lubrication related and the thin oil that the trans had makes me believe the oil was unsuitable. Probably the original factory fill oil. This trans only had 74,000 miles on it.
My trans guy has recommendations which he will share tomorrow when I pick the box up, but would certainly like to hear yours if you have one. My trans guy said to use Penzoil Synchromesh. He opened a new bottle to feel. Felt like 30 weight.
He also said a synthetic 75w90 would be good, gotta be synthetic though. I haven't priced the VW brand yet? Probably made in eurgyp at $100/gallon!? By the way, I worked with a parts supplier who had a good price on a clutch which was the wrong one to find a flywheel which was the right one for a 2009 CR manual: $549 shipped! I will bet 50 cents its the best retail price on the planet for a Luk DMF! I'm starting to fancy myself almost an expert on the BOHICA nature of Luk-VW DMF!
There was one guy here who was posting byby VW, hello Honda because of the almost consistent nature of the German Engineered failures associated with the VW DMF and other regular failures. I guess VW tweeks it a little bit with each consecutive wave of destruction. Mine is a 03L105266BM replacing the POS 03L105266AD. Hope the BM works out. Since the VW engine is mounted transversely, their manual transaxles don't use hypoid gears (this is not true of the Audi layouts). The gears all rotate in parallel axes and the resultant gear tooth contact loads are fairly low. VW has gone to very thin fluids in their transaxles in the quest to optimize fuel efficiency - these fluids provide about a 1% savings in comparison to a 75w-90 synthetic.
I've been an Amsoil dealer for many years, but if I lived in a very cold climate I'd probably go with the Redline 'MTL' for this App. It's as thin as a syncromesh fluid (10 Cst @100C), but provides a GL-4 level of gear/bearing protection. TS As for the info you are referring to from Redline; what it actually states is 'MTL, MT-85 & MT-90 are not for use in differentials with hypoid gears.'
Now; the reason for that is differentials using hypoid gears end up with much higher pressure at the contact points; and need a high impact gear oil (generally a GL-5) to better protect the gearing. However; modern manual transmissions with synchros need a yellow metal-safe gear oil (generally a GL-4) to protect the synchros; as GL-5 oils will eat into the metals.
The two are not necessarily interchangeable due to that; however some newer synthetics meet both GL-4/GL-5. As our transmissions are both synchro-meshed, and combined/linked with the differential; you have to have a fluid that is safe for both. Redline's warning, however, is dealing specifically with the impact safety of 'true' differentials and hypoid gears; not with hybrid type transmission/differentials. Their statement that they don't have a product that meets VW transmission fluid spec is quite true; as the specs of MTL and MT-90 are actually quite a bit thicker than the OEM fluid is (OEM fluid is actually far closer to an ATF). Here is a breakdown of many popular fluids and their viscosity at operating temps. Quote: (Manual Tranny Fluids) VI Vis@40C Vis@100C 128 159.0 18.3 = AMSOIL CTL SAE 50 Powershift GL-1.16.7 = Motul MOTYLGEAR 75-90 GL-4/-5.15.6 = VW G50/G51 GL-4 185 90.0 15.6 = Redline MT-90 75-90 GL-4.15.2 = Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90 GL-5.15.2 = Motul Gear 300 75-90 GL-4/-5.15.0 = Elf Tranself Synthese FE 75-90 GL-4/-5 132 116.0 14.9 = AMSOIL AGL 80W-90 GL-5 177 84.5 14.7 = AMSOIL MTG 75-90 GL-4.
Vw Manual Transmission Code
76.6 14.2 = VW G052-911 133 76.2 11.0 = AMSOIL CTJ SAE 30 Powershift GL-1 183 56.2 10.6 = Redline MTL 70-80 GL-4 194 47.1 9.6 = AMSOIL MTF Synchromesh Trans fluid (GM/Chrysler) GL-? 208 41.6 9.1 = Penzoil Synchromesh trans fluid GL-? 198 34.0 7.5 = Redline D4 ATF Dexron III / Mercon / API GL-4 138 40.5 7.1 = AMSOIL CTG SAE 10W Powershift GL-1. 31.2 6.5 = VW G-052-171-A2 GL-? 35.1 6.4 = VW G-055-726-A2 GL-?.6.3 = VW G52 (part numbers G052726A2 / G05272601) GL-?
The 02Q has a hypoid driving the diff. Plain as day on my bench last week. Any reasoned solution to the less than optimal wear pattern which I observed and was related to too low a viscosity would include raising the lubricant viscosity. After looking at the list you posted with all the fabulous information, the only ones that raise the viscosity and consider the hypoid are the Synchromesh from Pennzoil and Amsoil, the Elf, and the Motul 300 and Molygear. The VW go52-911 too.
All of these are somewhat exotic and expensive except the Pennzoil which can be picked up easily and inexpensively. Also, the viscosity is just a tad higher than the VW recommended one, appropriate for the minor non-optimal race wear, and keeping my MPG intact.
There is nothing sacrosanct about the insides of a modern gearbox, except that it is YOUR gearbox. Mine will have a little thicker lubricant suitable for a transaxle and the hypoid hiding within. Hey, I'm wrong and Quick TD is right. No hypoid, but helical spur yes. Hey, I'm wrong and Bleached Bora is right. The only recommended is the VW spec G052171A2. Hey, I'm wrong but I'm still putting in Pennzoil.
Hey, I'm wrong and Dubfamily is right. Redline says not in a Diff with a you know what (hypoid ). Hey, if I'm not wrong again: To drain, just pull the plug on the bottom. To fill, fill to the bottom of the fill plug, unless you have a later model where the angle of the engine is different than earlier models and the bottom of the fill plug is off a tad To fill the later models you go by filling a measured amount.
Hey, I know I am not wrong to thank all of the well informed, and not so well informed at TDI club without the shared knowledge, ideas, opinions, questions and answers, I would be at the mercy of the dealer, factory manual or Bentley.
Welcome to transmissionsforsale.biz Transmissionsforsale.biz Save Money With a Used Transmission Perhaps you have passed a junkyard with a sign advertising “Transmission for Sale:” You may wonder why someone would want to use a recycled part instead of a new one. Why would it be important to advertise used transmissions?
Vw Manual Transmission Fluid
The transmission is one of the most important and most complicated parts of a car or truck. It’s usually cheaper to replace than to fix but even a rebuilt transmission can cost over $3000.
The way to save money is to go to a junkyard or salvage yard that has a transmission for sale. You can often find used transmissions for about $500. The transmission is the part of your car that takes the energy your engine produces and tames it, turning it into power that will make your car run smoothly and steadily. When a car engine produces energy, it has to rotate very quickly. The transmission controls the energy and converts it into a form that will let your car run at the correct speed and shift gears smoothly. It is connected to the driveshaft (or transaxle in front wheel drive cars).
The driveshaft is connected to the axles and makes them turn. The car’s wheels are on the ends of the axles. It’s a good idea to go to a local salvage yard that has a transmission for sale and see what a used transmission looks like.
They are always cone- shaped devices. They are placed lying down in the car, with the base of the cone next to the engine. At the base is a group of gears which are attached to different shafts in the car and regulate their positions. There is also a ring-shaped device called a torque converter which contains a pump and a turbine. These two work together to send pressurized fluid through a complicated set of pipes (called the hydraulic system).
The fluid then goes into the valve body where it makes valves open and close, helping the car to shift gears. Often, you can find recycled parts at the junkyard. Look for pumps, shafts and gears. You may also find complete transmissions for sale.
Never buy recycled seals and gaskets. These parts wear out easily, and should be purchased at a new auto supply store, not a salvage yard. A small amount of money spent on new parts like these can make used transmissions run like new.